Cold draughts round the front door, a whistling gap under the door, or windows that let the wind in? A draught excluder (often spelt draft excluder) closes the gap and keeps the heat in. We stock door draught excluders, self-adhesive draught excluder strips, brush seals, around-door seal kits, under-door strips, garage door seals and window insulation film from Stormguard and Exitex.
Measure the size of the gap and the length to be sealed, then choose the type below. The right draught excluder should close the gap without stopping the door or window from shutting properly.
Rubber or foam draft excluder strip (sometimes called draught excluder tape) that sticks to the door or window frame. E profile suits smaller gaps and P profile larger ones. Quick to fit on uPVC, timber and aluminium frames.
Kits that seal the top and both sides of the door, such as Stormguard XP, Slikseal, Bryseal and Q-lon Aquacarrier. A good fix for draughts round a front door or back door.
Brush seals and foam strips fixed to the bottom of the door to close the gap above the floor or threshold. Suits internal doors and front doors; concealed brush seals sit neatly out of sight.
Long brush seals and floor threshold seals for garage doors, which have wider gaps than house doors.
Self-adhesive window draught excluder strips, plus secondary double glazing shrink film kits that seal single-glazed or draughty windows for the winter.
Fitted to the outside bottom of a door to throw rain away from the threshold. Often fitted alongside a draught excluder on exposed doors.
On a windy day, run the back of your hand slowly round the edges of the door or window and feel for cold air. Check the top and both sides of the frame, the gap under the door, and the letterbox. Fit the seal where you feel the draught, not just at the bottom of the door.
Clean the frame with warm soapy water or a degreaser and let it dry fully. Measure and cut the strip to length, peel back a short section of the backing and press it into place, working along the frame a little at a time. Fit on a dry day above about 5°C so the adhesive bonds properly, and close the door to check it shuts without forcing.
uPVC and composite doors are sealed with rubber gaskets in the frame. If those are worn, flattened or missing, replacing the gasket gives a better result than adding a stick-on strip. See our gaskets and seals range, or our threshold door seals for the bottom of the door.
Both mean the same thing. "Draught" is the usual UK spelling and "draft" the US spelling; you'll see both on packaging.
For gaps round the sides and top, an around-door seal kit works best. For the gap underneath, use a brush or foam strip on the bottom of the door, and a rain deflector outside if the door faces the weather.
Not if you choose the right size. Measure the gap first: a strip that is too thick will make the door hard to shut or lock.
Yes. Self-adhesive strips work on most opening windows. For single-glazed or very draughty windows, secondary glazing shrink film seals the whole pane.
Not sure which seal you need? Send us a photo of the gap or the existing seal, with a tape measure in shot, and we'll point you to the right one.
Send us a photo to identify your partMonday to Friday, 8:30–12:30 and 13:00–15:30
