ORDER BY 2 PM (MON–FRI) FOR SAME-DAY DESPATCH! NO DESPATCH ON WEEKENDS OR BANK HOLIDAYS
ORDER BY 2 PM (MON–FRI) FOR SAME-DAY DESPATCH! NO DESPATCH ON WEEKENDS OR BANK HOLIDAYS
Draughty windows? Whistling doors? Seal gone flat and letting the cold in?
Replacement gaskets and seals for uPVC, composite, aluminium and timber doors and windows — flipper, bubble, wedge, E-gasket, Q-Lon, Aquamac gaskets and threshold seals. If yours has gone hard, split, or shrunk away from the frame, you're in the right place.
Not sure which profile you need? Send us a photo of the old seal (also a shot of the frame if you can and some measurements) and we'll identify it for you. Support hours Mon–Fri, 9am–3:30pm.
Flipper gaskets are the thin rubber seals with a flat fin and are used around the opening edge of a uPVC door or window sash and frame. When yours goes hard and flat it stops making contact, and that's usually where draughts start. We stock the common profiles to fit most mainstream uPVC systems — match yours by measuring the grip (the part that clips into the frame) and the fin height.
Bubble gaskets are the rounded, hollow seals used around the opening edge of a uPVC door or window sash and frame. The bubble squashes against the frame when the door shuts, which is what keeps the weather out. If yours has gone hard or split, the door will feel looser when closed and you'll probably hear wind. Reddiplex, JCP and Stormguard profiles cover most systems we see.
Wedge gaskets (including corded, incremental, tear-off and Reddiglaze/Reddilock styles) are used on externally beaded windows and doors — where the glazing beads are fitted first and the wedge is pushed in from the inside to hold the glass tight against them. Get the grip size wrong and either the glass rattles or the wedge won't seat properly. Measure the gap between the glass and the frame in millimetres — that's the critical dimension.
E-gaskets are solid rubber profiles shaped like the letter E and come in two types for two different glazing methods. The slot-fit type is used on internally beaded frames — the gasket is fitted into a slot in the frame first, then the glass is dropped in and the beads go on last. The push-in type is fitted from the inside after glazing and can also be used on externally beaded systems as a secondary seal. Check which style your frame takes before ordering.
Q-Lon gaskets are heavier-duty door seals with a foam core wrapped in a tough polyurethane skin. You'll find them around the opening edge of composite and timber doors, where they compress to seal the gap between door and frame. They last well and recover their shape even after years of being squashed shut. Schlegel is the brand we stock.
You'll also find threshold door seals (the strip along the bottom of the door), intumescent seals for fire doors, Aquamac and timber gaskets for wooden frames, U-channel gasket for glazing, security glazing tape, and draught excluders for gaps under doors. Most seals are sold by the metre so you only buy what you need.
How do I identify which gasket I need?
Cut a short section of the old seal out (a couple of inches is enough), lay it flat and measure it with a ruler or vernier caliper — the overall height, the width, and the size of the grip that clips in. Then compare it to the cross-section diagrams on each product page. If you're unsure, send us a photo of the cut section along with the sizes and we'll match it.
Why has my seal gone hard and flat?
UV light, heat and age. Most rubber seals have a working life of around 10–20 years depending on exposure — south-facing windows tend to go first. Once the rubber loses its spring it can't compress and bounce back, so it stops sealing. There's no fix other than replacement.
What's the difference between a bubble gasket and a flipper gasket?
A flipper has a flat, fin-shaped tail that lies against the frame when the window is closed — it's the seal you can usually see around the sash and frame on an opener. A bubble gasket has a hollow, rounded tube that squashes when the sash shuts against the outer frame — it's what stops the wind getting in around the edges. Most uPVC windows use both, in different places.
How do I tell if my window is internally or externally beaded?
Look at the glazing beads — the strips that hold the glass in. If the joins are on the inside of the window, it's internally beaded. If the joins are on the outside, it's externally beaded. Most modern uPVC windows are internally beaded for security.
Can I fit a new seal myself?
Yes, most of these are DIY jobs. The old seal pulls out of its groove, and the new one pushes in — no adhesive needed for push-fit types. Work in one continuous length where possible, cut it slightly long (around 5mm) so it butts tightly at the corners, and avoid stretching it as you fit it.
How much do I need to order?
Measure the full perimeter of the opening sash or frame in metres and add around 10% for corner cuts and waste. For a standard casement window, 4–5 metres is usually plenty. Most of our gaskets are sold by the metre in one continuous length for a neat finish.
Need a hand?
WhatsApp us on 07918 241583 or email sales@jcphardware.co.uk. Support hours Mon–Fri, 9am–3:30pm.
Over 30 years doing this — there's very little we haven't seen.
